Carpenter
Ants | More Ant Control Information |All
Ant Control Products
CARPENTER ANT APPEARANCE:
Scale : Small ants to the larger Carpenter Ants
Carpenter ants are large, from 1/4 o 3/8 inches long and
are dark brown to black, but some may have red or yellow coloration. The
black carpenter ant, Camponotus pennsylvanicus, in the east and C. modoc
in the west are the most thoroughly studied species in the United States.
Other species of Camponotus are distributed throughout the country. The
queens are slightly bigger. The workers of an established colony very
in size. The usual carpenter ant is large and black, but the Florida carpenter
ant, is smaller and ranges in colors from yellow, red, brown to black.
Click on image for a larger size
BLACK CARPENTER ANT |
Click on image for a larger size
FLORIDA CARPENTER ANT |
| EASTERN UNITED STATES:
(Camponotus pennsylvanicus): Color: All black
Workers: 1/4-1/2 inch in size
Queen: Large, over 1/2 inch in size
Swarming: Colony matures in 3-4 years,
swarming occurs in late spring-summer
WESTERN UNITED STATES:
(Camponotus modoc)
Color: Black Body, red dark legs
Workers:1/5-1/2 inch in size, but variable
Queen: Large, over 1/2 inch in size
swarming occurs in late spring-summer.
Colony size: Up to 15,000 workers |
FLORIDA CARPENTER ANT
(Cabdominalis floridanus)
Color: Red head,black abdomen,thorax and legs
Workers: Smaller,3/16-3/8 inches in size
Queen: Large, over 1/2 inch in size
Swarming: Unmated swarmers in satellite colonies
Location: Florida, extreme southeast U.S.
Colony size: Up to 3,500 workers. |
DIET
Florida carpenter ants eat a variety of plant and animal foods,
as well as sweets. Carpenter Ants also feed on other insects.
HABITS
Carpenter Ants are nocturnal.
They usually nest outside in moist wood or partially decayed
wood.
They prefer to hollow out their nests in softened wood. Their nests are
called
"galleries." These galleries are clean and have a sandpaper appearance.
In comparison, termite galleries are rough looking.
Wood that has been damaged by carpenter ants contain no mud-like material,
as is the case with termites.
Florida carpenter ants' nests are commonly found in such
places as moist, hollow
spaces like the wall void behind dishwashers.
Nests are usually found in areas
where water leakage could occur, such as around bathtubs, sinks, roof
leaks,
poorly flashed chimneys, or poorly sealed windows or door frames. Outdoor
nest
are found in places like tree stumps, hollow logs, fence posts or dead
portions
of standing trees.
However, theses persistent creatures can build nests in
cracks and crevices of sound wood.
They may establish nests in a number of different locations.
It is important to understand than you can have both inside and outside
nests.
Carpenter Ants construct two different kinds of nests: parent colonies
which,
when mature, contain an egg-laying queen, a brood, 2,000 or more worker
ants,
and satellite colonies, which may have large numbers of worker ants, but
no
queen, eggs or larvae.
For example, the ones found in your home may have originated from parent
nests outdoors,
perhaps in a tree stump, timber or woodpile, or from one or more satellite
nests
hidden behind a wall in the kitchen or bathroom, or perhaps from wood
dampened
by a roof leak in the attic.
Although large carpenter ant colonies can cause structural damage,
the damage is not normally as serious as termite damage.
INSPECTION :
Because Carpenter Ants forage primarily at night, inspections
should be made in the evening
or early morning to locate foraging trails and nest sites.
The workers have been known to travel as far as 100 yards
from the colony
to search for food and water.
A thorough inspection is important to find all the sites.
Don't conclude your inspection when one colony is found;
several colonies may be present in and around the structure.
Inspect wooden structures associated with high moisture,
where there may be water damage that produces softened wood.
Carpenter Ants prefer frames and sills of windows and doors,
as well as tub enclosure walls, and kitchen and bath plumbing walls.
After sunset is a good time of day to see carpenter ants when their activity
increases,
particularly in the spring and summer.
You may want to use a flashlight to observe any obvious
trails and patterns.
To locate their nests' sites, focus on these areas:
INDOORS
* Moisture problems * Wall voids
* Attics (especially under roofing and insulation)
* Flooring or sub flooring
*Ceilings
*Windows
*Skylights
*Hollow doors
*Dishwashers
*Trash compactors
*Plumbing, pipe chases(kitchen/bath) OUTDOORS
*Trees
*Stumps/ dead trees
*Landscape timbers
*Woodpiles and fences
*Leaf litter
*Debris piles
*Mulch beds
*Door kick plates
*Roof lines and gutters
*Soffits and vents
*Windows and door frames
*Utility entrances( electric, cable, TV, telephone, gas lines)
*Sheds and doghouses
*Trash containers
FAQ'S and TIPS :Carpenter Ants
1. How long have you noticed the problem?
A long history of activity indicates a colony
located in the structure.
In northern regions, activity indoors during colder weather is strong
evidence that a colony is located in the structure.
2. How many ants do you see?
Seeing many ants frequently indicates an indoor
colony.
If you see them only occasionally, they may be
random foragers coming in form the outside.
3. Where are Carpenter Ants seen most often?
This will provide a clue to where
Carpenter Ants are foraging and nesting.
4. Have you seen any small piles that look like
sawdust?
Frass piles are usually located close to nest
sites
5. Have you had any water leaks or noticed any rotting
wood ?
If so where?
Carpenter Ants often nest in moist or rotting
wood.
You should inspect these areas first.
Carpenter Ants prefer to nest in moist environments.
6. Conduct inspections in the evening or early morning.
Carpenter Ants are more active at night, so you're
more likely to
observe foraging activity and find the nest.
7. Inspect "lines".
Foraging ants like to travel on fence lines,
phone lines, roof lines,railings ,
as well as driveway / sidewalk borders and edges.
8. Knock on wood near suspected nest sites.
Look and listen for activity.
Carpenter ants sound like crinkling cellophane.
9. Check frass piles for materials such as wood,
insulating, plastic, etc.
Frass material will help indicate specific nest
locations.
10. Look for plastic vapor barriers under mulch
beds.
Ants trail or nest under the plastic film.
11. Follow foraging ants carrying the food particles.
They're heading back to the nest.
Place food in the ants' path, then follow
them back to their nests.
12. Be mindful of weather conditions during the
inspections.
They rarely forage if temperatures
are below 55 degrees F.
13. Inspect trees and dead wood.
They tend to nest in tree holes and dead wood
on the ground.
14. Inspect outdoor plants for aphids.
They like to feed on honeydew.
15. Look for tree branches, shrubs and vines
against the buildings.
Branches and vines provide easy access.
HOW TO DETECT CARPENTER ANT GALLERIES
Many times you can see what looks like sawdust
near their galleries.
This sawdust or frass, is shredded fragments of wood
that has been ejected from
the galleries.
This is a good indication that a nest is nearby.
But sometimes
this evidence is undetectable,
but using a screwdriver to probe the wood near a
suspicious are may reveal the excavated galleries.
Also, you use the blunt end
of the screwdriver to tap along baseboards
and other wood surfaces, listening
for the hollow sound of damaged wood.
If a nest is nearby, often the carpenter
ants will respond by making a rustling sound within the nest,
similar to the
sound of crinkling cellophane.
AFTER THE INSPECTION: CONTROL MEASURES
After inspecting for carpenter ants, you will have determined if they are simply
outside, foraging inside or you might have a colony or
satellite colony on the inside.
Often, the ones you see inside your home are simply foraging
for food, and you may not see large numbers of them.
Foraging workers can travel 100 yards from nest to food and can be found
wandering throughout your house.
RESIDUAL SPRAYS: FORAGING
At times you will have foraging ants that come
from the outside to the inside,
forage for food ,
then leave going back outside to their nests.
A good defense for such a scenario would be a
perimeter treatment with residual insecticides such as:
Dominion 2L
 Demon
WP ,  Cyper
WP , or  Cyonara
9.7.
Demon WP, Cyper WP , Cyonara 9.7 and Dominion 2L (same label as Premise 2) are
considered quarterly treatments, sprayed every 2-3 months. Dominion 2L is the
preferred choice, because it is a non repellent insecticide. Dominion 2L is
a non-repellent termite or insecticide treatment, meaning that termites or carpenter
ants unknowingly enter a treated zone of applied chemical. Many times ants may
want to establish a trail away from the chemical treated area.
This treatment will also stop new populations of carpenter ants and other
invading pests such as roaches and spiders. Spray around the foundation
of the structure, around 2-3 feet high as well as around the ground floor
doors and windows.
Spray in the garage and basement areas along the baseboards. Dominion
2L is labeled for outside treatment only.
These products will give you about three months' protection or
longer.
Cyonara 9.7 and Dominion 2L are liquids and Demon WP and Cyper WP are
a wettable powders.
They both work well on all kinds on surfaces, however Demon WP and Cyper
WP can leave a visible residue against dark surfaces and Cyonara 9.7
and Dominion 2L will dry invisible..
TREATING THE VOIDS: COLONIES INSIDE A VOID OR RECESSED AREA
However, indoor nest are also found in hollow doors,
window sills, behind
baseboards, or other natural hollow areas.
These are the areas that warrant
a complete inspection.
Their damage usually
indicates water damage and wood decay.
If you can determine where their nests are,
you can use an aerosol with a
crack and crevice tip such as:  Crack & Crevice
I-Cyfluthrin or 
Crack & Crevice II-Propoxur
to discharge a spray right to the source. The Crack & Crevice I adnd II work
well because you can spray it upside down and has a good dispersion.
Another good choice for direct contact with
a nest is a residual insecticide
solution such as :
Dominion 2L
Demon
WP , Cyper
WP , or Cyonara
9.7.
Demon WP, Cyper WP , Cyonara 9.7 and Dominion 2L (same label as Premise 2) are
considered quarterly treatments, sprayed every 2-3 months. Dominion 2L is the
preferred choice, because it is a non repellent insecticide. Dominion 2L is
a non-repellent termite or insecticide treatment, meaning that termites or carpenter
ants unknowingly enter a treated zone of applied chemical. Many times ants may
want to establish a trail away from the chemical treated area.
Spray directly into their nest.
This will kill the queen or queens, thereby
eliminating the whole population quickly. Dominion 2L is to used outside only.
Note: It is not recommended that you use a liquid insecticide in a wall void.
You can treat wall voids and other hidden spaces where ants hide by carefully
drilling a series of small (1/8 inch) holes and dusting the area with a residual
insecticide dust such as Delta Dust
or you can use an aerosol with
a crack and
crevice tip.
These methods provide a long-term residual effect.
If you
suspect the nest is in a wall, drill and treat at
least 2-6 feet on either side
of where ants are entering in order to maximize the opportunity
to contact the
nest directly, so you can get the queen.
Note: ALWAYS use aerosols or dusts.
NEVER use liquid
insecticides or metal tipped devices around any electrical outlets.
BAITING: FOR BOTH FORAGING CARPENTER ANTS AND CARPENTER ANTS IN RECESSED
AREAS.
Another good treatment choice is to bait inside and the
grounds outside with a bait like:
Advance 375A Select Granular Ant Bait or:
 Maxforce
Carpenter Ant Bait Gel.
These two baits would allow the foraging workers to take
the bait to the queens eliminating the colony /colonies, thereby preventing
future outdoor populations from coming inside.
Both of these baits works well with
carpenter ants and will hold up outside.
Carpenter ants will feed on sweets sometimes and at other times will feed
on proteins.
The Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel contains honeydew, one of the major
food sources for these ants.
The Advance 375 A Ant Bait is protein based for there protein needs.
It would be expedient to use both baits for a complete
balance of their dietary needs.
We do carry a special kit with both products :
CARPENTER
ANT BAIT KIT
Foraging ants find the bait and
distribute it to the colonies.
Note:
It is important not to put insecticides,
liquid or granulated, in the same areas,
they would contaminate the baits.
It is important to remove other competing food sources
(such as crumbs and pet food),that could interfere
with them taking the bait.
Feel free to call us for further information or help.
POSSIBLE STEPS FOR CARPENTER ANT PREVENTION
- Correct moisture problems, roof leaks, and plumbing leaks.
- Cut back tree limbs or branches that could serve as
a bridge to your structure.
- Seal cracks and openings around the foundation, especially
where utility pipes and wires enter from the outside.
- Firewood needs to be stacked away from the house, elevated
off the ground if possible. They love to nest in firewood.
|
