Baits are particularly effective on social insects such as Ants and Termites, because these pests collect food and share it with their colony.
Because of this food-sharing ability, slow-acting insecticide baits such as the recommended ones listed below are best for controlling Ants, so the Ant carrying it does not die before it returns to the colony.
By the slower method of destroying the colony,
some say baits offer a more permanent pest solution than broadcast applications of repellent spray pesticides,
which inadequately repel pests from a structure. Non-repellent Ant sprays ensure that the worker Ants carry residual insecticide back to the nest before they die.
Click Here : Recommended Ant Baits
Ant Baiting Tips
- Find the trails. The most effective bait placement is along the trails the Ants use while they're foraging for food.
- If you are not sure if multiple trails belong to the same colony, bait every trail that you find.
- Re-bait after the Ants have consumed the bait. Check on it daily. When the Ants are gone you can stop baiting in that location.
- If none of the bait has been taken, switch to a different type of bait. Consider the sweet-based baits if you are baiting with a protein/grease-based bait and vice versa.
- Have patience; it does take some time for the whole colony to die.
- Make sure to bait all trails (both inside and outside) to completely eliminate every Ant colony.
- Use outdoor bait stations such as Bait Station Plates to preserve and protect baits.
- Do not use repellent insecticides on or near baits. Non-Repellents are fine.
- Do not bait on top of a mound. Bait around the base of the mound. If you bait on top, some of the foraging Ants will not find it to bring it back to the queen.
- Remove all competitive food sources.
Baits are less effective in areas with abundant rival food sources such as:
dumpsters, chicken houses, pet's feeding dishes, trash cans, etc.
Another type of bait competition comes from Aphids and Scale insects
producing honeydew on nearby vegetation.
If you do notice a mold-like substance on your perimeter plants, treat those plants with an appropriate product (like Liquid Seven) to kill the Aphids.
- Use fresh bait. Once the container is opened it needs to be used within 6 months to 1 year. After that it becomes stale and unacceptable to the Ants.
- Do not use insecticidal sprays or dusts during baiting treatment.
Contact or residual insecticide applied some time prior to or
during the baiting treatments creates a hostile environment,
suppressing foraging activity.
- Baits are most effective when temperatures are above 70°F.
If daytime temperatures are in the 90s a nighttime application may be more effective.
Place a small amount of bait or other food (try potato chips)
close to a mound. If Ants are present,
they will emerge to forage within 30 minutes if conditions are favorable.
- Do not use baits on wet surfaces such as grass with dew.
This will make the bait less desirable to the Ants.
- Broadcasting baits is normally more effective than mound treatments in reducing
Fire Ant populations.
Broadcasting is more economical and less labor intensive than individual mound treatments in areas with more than 40 mounds per acre.
- Be very thorough when baiting.
If at all possible locate every possible entry point.
If the infestation is indoors, don't forget to bait outside as well.
- IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMOVE ANY OTHER FOOD COMPETITION WHEN BAITING. LEAVE THE BAIT ALONE ONCE THE ANTS START FEEDING ON IT.
Click Here : Recommended Ant Baits