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Baits are particularly effective on social insects such as ants and termites, because these pests collect food and share it with their colony.
Because of this food-sharing ability, slow-acting insecticide baits such as the recommended ones listed below are best for controlling ants, so the ant carrying it does not die before it returns to the colony.
By the slower method of destroying the colony,
some say baits offer a more permanent pest solution than broadcast applications of spray pesticides,
which basically repels pests from a structure unless you use a non-repellent ant spray.
Click Here : Recommended Ant Baits
- Find the trails. The best place for the bait among the trails the ants use while they're foraging for food.
- If you are not sure if multiple trails belong to the same colony, bait each one that you find.
- Re-bait after the ants have consumed the bait. Check on it daily.If the ants have ceased and have died, you can stop baiting.
- If none of the bait has been taken, you will need to switch to a different type of bait. Consider the sweet based baits if you are baiting with a protein/grease based bait and vice versa.
- Have patience, it does take some time for the whole colony to die
- Make sure to check inside and outside trails to make sure to eliminate all possiblities of ant infestations.
- The use of outdoor bait stations such as the Bait Station Plates will preserve and protect baits.
- Do not use repellent insecticides on or near baits. Non-Repellents are fine.
- Do not bait on top of a mound. Bait around the mound. If you bait on top, some of the foraging ants will not find it to bring it back to the queen.
- Remove competitive food sources.
Baits are less effective in areas with abundant food sources that serve as a rival food source like :
dumpsters, chicken houses, pet's feeding dishes, trash cans, etc.
Another type of bait competition comes from aphids and scale insects
producing honey dew outside.
If you do notice mold like substance on your perimeter plants
(treat the ornamentals with an appropriate labeled product like Liquid Seven.
- Use fresh bait, once the container is opened it needs to be used within 6 months to 1 year.It not, it becomes stale and unacceptable to the ants, not having a good acceptance.
- Do not use insecitcidal sprays or dusts before or during baiting treatment.
Contact or a residual insecticide applied some time prior to treatment or
during the baiting treatments, sets a hostile environment,
suppressing foraging activity from the foraging ants.
- Baits are most effective when temperatures are above 70F.
If daytime temperatures are in the 90's a nighttime application may be more effective.
Placing a small amount of bait or other food (potato chips)
close to a mound will determine if ants are there,
ready to forage for food within 30 minutes if conditions are favorable.
- Do not use baits on wet surfaces such as grass with dew.
This will make the bait less desirable to the ants --- remember the ants
perceive the baits as a potential food source.
- Broadcasting baits is normally more effective in reducing
fire ant populations than mound treatments.
Broadcasting is more economical and less labor intensive than individual mound treatments in areas with more than 40 mounds per acre.
- Be very thorough when baiting.
If at all possible locate possible entry points,
Don't forget the baiting outside as well.
- IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO REMOVE ANY OTHER FOOD COMPETITION WHEN BAITING
AND LEAVE THE BAIT ALONE ONCE THE ANTS START FEEDING ON IT.
- Click Here : Recommended Ant Baits
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